Day 2 - Airport Camp to Murphy's Hogback

After a warm night sleeping in the tents with no fly, making for great star gazing and even the occasional shooting star, we arose early once again to try to take advantage of the cooler (ok, less hot) early morning temperatures. Today will be our longest day - 26 miles (42 km) with a nasty climb at the very end. We have a quick breakfast of some cereal or yogurt and nasty instant coffee and then on to the bikes. 

There is only enough cloud in the morning to make the sunrise pretty, a stinking hot day awaits. The views today are quite dramatic with many deep canyon views – not for the faint of heart. 

The camper today has early challenges with a feature called the ‘big tilt’ an off-camber traverse. Our driver, self described as fully experienced from 'years of reading off road 4x4 magazines' is feeling confident in driving and does very well. The photo opportunities are many today. Unfortunately we encounter sand which makes the riding more difficult. Lots of effort for not as much gain. The government maintenance pickup passes us going the other way today. 

 

We stop for a snack break at the turn-off to the “white crack” we do not have the time to travel the extra few miles to see it and still get finished before the day gets too hot, another time maybe. 

The Big Overhang

 Instead we enjoy oranges from the refrigerator in the camper. Delicious. 

Monument Basin

We are passed by a lone person on a motorcycle, and later another two motor cycles and a pickup pass our camp. No others camping at the adjacent camps tonight either, only a few day trippers and the government truck to clean the facilities and top up the paper are our White Rim companions.

The temperature continues to rise, beer o'clock not in the cards today. ...we persevere through more heinous sand. One of riders takes an unhappy fall when the front wheel gets bogged down in the sand and the rest of the bike keeps moving. A nasty gash to the right leg accompanied by a side order of road rash requires sand removal and first aid attention later at camp to avoid complications. 

Camper approaches Hogback Climb

We know we have the infamous Murphy’s Hogback to climb. It is featured in many of the You-Tube videos that some of us had watched. We start a climb – we’re tired and hot. We meet a couple of European hikers down from the highway, apparently wandering aimlessly in the desert  – what are they doing out here? they suggest we may be crazy?? Could this be the famous Hogback? 

Murphy Hogback final climb

We cannot see where the trail leads and then round a corner and we see the final climb. It’s the steepest and longest of anything we’ve seen. There is a 2 part harmony chorus of “Holy S..t” So we start the push, none of us even considers attempting to ride it.  A grand sufferfest is had by all as we struggle up the final grade. Eventually we all make it to the top where the hot desert sun is burning down on us. Most of us are suffering one or more symptoms of heat exhaustion....  Our more than 325 years of combined life experience weighs heavy....

The camper arrives and the thermometer on the truck reads 41C. Yikes, that’s way too hot. We take turns sitting in the air- conditioned cab of the truck. I drink my chocolate bar. 

Then we find shade behind a large rock and stay there the rest of the day. We enjoy a cool Costco watermelon, tasted good enough to be stolen. Wonderful.  Our spray bottles are also very welcome as we hide behind the rock for shade.... 

A delicious meal of back ribs and fixings is prepared by the driver and partner, they get no rest, we drink more beer, play a rousing game of Boce trying not to hit the cook and risk food related punishment.

Delicious Ribs

Luckily the wind picks up late to cool us down. And wait now, clouds are forming in the west, fair weather cumulus no doubt, it doesn't rain in the desert.... 

Some discussion now ensues about strategy of reversing road in Camper after day 3. Becoming clear it would take a lot of time to drive back and spotter would be required. Possibility of taking Camper all the way around now actively being considered. A few members of the party scout the downward side of the Hogback in anticipation for the morning. The report is 20m of  ' will be pushing bike down'. The driver finds little comfort in the report and sleep is affected by more than weather and ladies wearing nothing but glasses going outside and adjusting camping tables and related equipment.

Green River basin from Murphy Camp

We set up the tents without their flies to enjoy the desert stars. Mother nature treats us to an excellent lightning display after the sun sets. We figure odds better than 50/50 it won't rain on us.  Then before we are even able to get settled in the tent, winds pick up even more and the rain starts, best if we don't go all in when we gamble I guess. Screams are heard, a panic ensues getting the tent flies back on. The tents and the camper shake and rock much of the night, and not in a good way....